Going Slowlo!
I must admit I judged people sitting alone in a cinema hall or a restaurant and found it extremely strange and ridiculous. At the time, travelling by yourself for a holiday and in today’s lingo ‘solo trip’ was unheard of, scandalous even. But as life happens and we age like fine wine, we realise solitude is a gift.
I love travelling on a shoestring budget, immersing myself in homes that tell a story, that have soul, rather than mindlessly constructed hotels that provide ‘luxurious comfort’. This year, my choice was Goa. I love it so much I could go every year, if I could. People often ask me, “Why Goa, always?” To that, I say, why not? Goa is akin to a palette of exquisite and vibrant colours - diverse, varied, changing, always evolving, and blending to create something more wondrous. It is a pleasure to capture through the camera lens, through writing, but above all by experiencing- breathing it, and living it.
Surprisingly, on my multiple trips to Goa, I had not once explored Panjim, its iconic capital, a fascinating place with so much to offer. To assume that one must visit Panjim or Panaji for the casinos and liquor is a gross injustice to a city that harbours centuries of history, heritage and culture. So, when the picture of a cosy little cottage in cobalt blue popped up on my phone screen, I knew I found my destination for my annual solo trip. This time, I would dedicate it to taking it ‘slow’ - not with a significant other, but the significant ‘self’ - ME!
Villa Khatun is located in Mala, a quiet neighbourhood very near Panjim’s famous and idyllic Fontainhas precinct. Covered in lavender-hued Thunbergia flowers, the accommodation is run by a family that stays in the front cottage of the property, while two large rooms are rented out to travellers looking for an affordable, simple and safe homestay close to the main sights with much-needed peace for a slow travel experience.
Being an avid explorer, traveller, writer, and amateur photographer, I crave spaces that awaken my senses and inspire me to imagine and write and most of all be eternally grateful for the journey called ‘Life’. I was delighted to stay in Villa Khatun watching the rains battering away and colliding with thunder now and then, over a cup of tea and freshly baked and sinfully creamy ‘Pasteis de Nata’ (Portuguese custard tarts). After that sumptuous breakfast, I would explore Fontainhas- visit its concept cafes, local food joints, art galleries, temples, churches, and museums. I also visited a Church or two in Velha (Old) Goa - again one of my favourite haunts in the state. A personalised food trail with a local travel agency was informational and refreshing; it took me to places unheard of on social media, but very popular with the locals for decades.
Visiting the Sunaparanta Arts Centre was a special experience. This quiet and colourful art haven comprised multiple exhibits, some showcasing art, others playing videos featuring Goan artists and cultural snippets. It also houses a cafe that I quickly browsed through as I had plans to visit the neighbouring Hanuman Temple. The Museum of Christian Art tour was the highlight, and the chapel visit was a deeply calming and spiritual experience. I was happy to purchase souvenirs and intentionally contribute to preserving our wonderful heritage.
Old Goa boasts several Churches - both big and small - with architecture that is both quaint and magnificent. To appreciate it, one needs a truly immersive experience which is why I avoided the tourist-flooded Church of Bom Jesus and Se Cathedral. Instead, I visited the smaller but quieter Churches such as Our Lady of the Rosary Church, Saint Cajetan Church, and the Church of Santa Monica housed within the Museum of Christian Art (MoCA) in Velha (Old) Goa. Most of these Churches are only for visiting, no service takes place in them, which presents an amazing opportunity for slow travellers and art aficionados such as myself to lose ourselves in the history of these places, examine every sculpture, experience the nostalgia seeing the centuries-old paint wearing off, and other emotions that cannot be described in words.
On the days I didn’t feel like getting out, I simply enjoyed sitting in the rustic lounge area watching the sunbirds sip nectar from the Thunbergia flowers on the azure walls of Villa Khatun, browsing through books, and enjoying the tranquillity. I would also walk up to the turtle pond to greet its two cute inhabitants.
The last leg of my solo trip took me to the 400-year-old Reis Magos fort, a grand and wondrous remnant of the Portuguese colonial era in Goa. A bastion of behemoth proportions. The Fort premises also house small exhibits showcasing the fort’s complex history, the colonial era, and post-independent Goa. They house artefacts, photographs, monographs, maps, and much more. I was fortunate to have an unhurried stroll through them while relishing the sound of the salty waves in the Arabian Sea, and breathtaking views of the vast blue from the fort.
Lo and behold! My slow solo trip was concluded as I made my way to the airport. I ensured I stopped for a modest fish thali for a mere Rs. 150 before leaving the coasts of the Sunshine State!
- Riddhima Basiya (Riddhima Basiya is a corporate communications professional. A Mumbai native, her favourite writing genres are short stories, mainly ghost stories.)